9 Moisturizer Ingredients for Dry Winter Skin, Ranked by What the Science Actually Supports
Cracked hands, itchy shins, flaky cheeks? I ranked 9 popular moisturizer ingredients by the evidence, from petrolatum to hyaluronic acid.

Every winter, the same pattern shows up. Around the time the heater kicks on for good, people start noticing that their hands crack at the knuckles, their shins itch through their jeans, and their face feels tight an hour after washing it.
Then they walk into the skincare aisle and face a wall of jars promising "deep hydration," "barrier repair," and "48-hour moisture." Labels list ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, urea, squalane, and shea butter. It is overwhelming, and much of it is marketing.
So we did what we like to do on this site: went back to the dermatology research. Below, I rank nine common moisturizer ingredients by how well the evidence supports them for dry winter skin, explain how each one works in plain English, and share how to actually use them.
Why Skin Dries Out in Winter
First, a little science, because it explains everything that follows.
The outermost layer of your skin is called the stratum corneum. Dermatologists often compare it to a brick wall: the "bricks" are flattened skin cells, and the "mortar" is a mix of fats (lipids) including ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. That mortar keeps water in and irritants out.
Even healthy skin slowly loses water to the air through a process called transepidermal water loss, or TEWL. In winter, two things speed that up. As dermatologist Dr. Deanne Robinson explained to WebMD, "Winter brings cold temperatures and less humidity," and indoor heating makes the air even drier. Dr. Howard Brooks, a Washington, D.C., dermatologist, described it as a "double whammy" of cold outdoor air and heated indoor air.
The result is xerosis, the medical term for dry, rough, scaly skin. It is extremely common. In the Rotterdam Study, which examined 5,547 middle-aged and older adults, 60% had dry skin. A German screening of 48,630 working adults found that 29.4% had xerotic skin, and dry skin was strongly linked to conditions like eczema.
The Three Ways Moisturizers Work
Every moisturizer ingredient falls into one or more of three categories. Understanding them will make you a far smarter shopper:
- Occlusives form a seal on the skin's surface that slows water loss. Think of them as a lid on a pot.
- Humectants attract and hold water in the outer layer of skin. Think of them as sponges.
- Emollients fill the tiny gaps between skin cells, making skin feel smoother and softer.
The best winter moisturizers usually combine at least two. A humectant pulls water in, and an occlusive keeps it there.
The Rankings
1. Petrolatum (Occlusive)
Best for: Very dry, cracked skin; hands, heels, lips; overnight repair
Petrolatum, the main ingredient in petroleum jelly, takes the top spot because no other ingredient matches its sealing power. A review in Cutis notes that petrolatum is the most effective oil-based moisturizer, reducing TEWL by 98%, while other oils only reduce it by 20% to 30%.
It is also cheap, rarely causes allergic reactions, and is a mainstay in dermatology for wound care and eczema.
How I suggest using it: Try the "soak and smear" technique. Soak the dry area (or take a short bath) in plain lukewarm water, then immediately smear on petrolatum to lock that water in. For cracked hands, apply a thick layer at night and sleep in cotton gloves.
The downside: It is greasy. Most people prefer it at night or on the body rather than the face during the day.
2. Ceramides (Barrier Lipid)
Best for: Compromised skin barrier, eczema-prone skin, all-over daily use
Remember the "mortar" in that brick wall? Ceramides are a major part of it. Dry skin often has fewer of these barrier lipids, so applying ceramides helps replenish what is missing.
Dermatologists consistently recommend them for winter. A Minnesota dermatologist, Dr. Pearson, noted in a university news release that "Ceramides may be helpful in restoring the skin barrier," making them a good ingredient to look for.
Ceramides work best when paired with cholesterol and fatty acids, mirroring the skin's natural lipid mix. Many drugstore creams now combine all three.
How I suggest using it: Look for a thick cream (one you scoop from a jar or squeeze from a tube) rather than a thin pump lotion. Apply twice daily, especially right after bathing.
3. Glycerin (Humectant)
Best for: Nearly everyone; a reliable, affordable workhorse
Glycerin (also called glycerol) is one of the oldest and best-studied humectants in skincare, and it deserves far more credit than it gets.
A 2008 review in the British Journal of Dermatology found that glycerin improves stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier function, and skin elasticity, and specifically noted that its hydrating effect is critical in skin conditions aggravated by dry and cold environmental conditions, such as winter xerosis.
An earlier study in Acta Dermato-Venereologica found that glycerin accelerated recovery of damaged skin barrier function, with benefits still visible a week after treatment stopped.
A technical note: Like all humectants, glycerin needs water to work. Lab research has shown it does not act as a humectant at very low humidity on its own. That is why glycerin performs best in a formula that also contains an occlusive like petrolatum or dimethicone.
4. Urea (Humectant and Keratolytic)
Best for: Rough, thick, scaly skin; heels, elbows, shins; keratosis pilaris
Urea is a natural component of the skin's own moisturizing factors. What makes it special is that it does two jobs depending on the concentration.
According to the AHFS drug monograph, at concentrations of 10% to 30%, urea promotes hydration of keratin and mild keratolysis (gentle breakdown of thick, dead skin) in dry and hyperkeratotic skin. At around 40%, it becomes much stronger and is used for calluses and thickened nails.
How I suggest using it: A 10% urea lotion is a great option for rough legs and arms. Save 20% to 40% formulas for cracked heels and calluses. Avoid applying higher concentrations to broken or inflamed skin, because urea can sting.
5. Colloidal Oatmeal (Skin Protectant)
Best for: Itchy, irritated, or eczema-prone skin
Colloidal oatmeal is finely ground oat that disperses in water. It is not just a folk remedy. It is one of the active ingredients recognized in the FDA's Over-the-Counter Final Monograph for Skin Protectant Drug Products, issued in 2003.
Its starches and beta-glucans help hold water on the skin, and its natural compounds called avenanthramides have anti-inflammatory and anti-itch effects. In a 5-week clinical study of 50 people with moderate to severe dry skin on their lower legs, a colloidal oatmeal lotion significantly improved moisturization and skin barrier function. (That study was sponsored by the product's manufacturer, which is worth keeping in mind.)
How I suggest using it: Great for an itchy winter rash on the shins. Oatmeal bath soaks are also helpful for widespread itching.
6. Lactic Acid or Ammonium Lactate (Humectant and Exfoliant)
Best for: Rough, bumpy, flaky body skin
Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that both attracts water and gently loosens dead skin cells. Ammonium lactate 12% lotion is a classic option for severely dry, scaly skin on the legs and arms.
How I suggest using it: Use it on the body rather than the face, and avoid it on cracked or broken skin, where it will sting. Because AHAs can increase sensitivity to the sun, wear sunscreen on treated areas that are exposed.
7. Dimethicone (Occlusive)
Best for: People who want protection without the grease; face and hands during the day
Dimethicone is a silicone that forms a breathable, water-resistant film on the skin. It is also listed in the FDA skin protectant monograph. It does not seal in water as powerfully as petrolatum, but it feels far lighter and is less likely to feel heavy on the face.
Dr. Shari Lipner of Weill Cornell Medicine recommends looking for ingredients like ceramides, dimethicone, and shea butter that help provide a good seal on the skin.
8. Shea Butter (Emollient and Occlusive)
Best for: Dry body skin; people who prefer plant-based products
Shea butter is rich in fatty acids that soften the skin and provide a moderate seal. It feels luxurious and works well in body creams.
I rank it lower only because the clinical evidence is thinner than for the ingredients above, and because it can occasionally irritate sensitive skin. It is a good supporting ingredient, not usually the star.
9. Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant)
Best for: Adding hydration under a richer cream; normal to combination skin
This may surprise people, because hyaluronic acid is one of the most heavily marketed ingredients in skincare. It is a genuinely effective humectant that can hold a lot of water.
So why last? For winter dryness specifically, a humectant alone is not enough. In very dry air, humectants need a source of water, and without an occlusive on top, that water can evaporate quickly. Hyaluronic acid works well, but it works best as part of a team.
How I suggest using it: Apply a hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin, then seal it in right away with a ceramide cream or a thin layer of an occlusive.
Quick Comparison
| Rank | Ingredient | Type | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Petrolatum | Occlusive | Cracked, very dry skin |
| 2 | Ceramides | Barrier lipid | Barrier repair, eczema-prone skin |
| 3 | Glycerin | Humectant | Everyday hydration |
| 4 | Urea | Humectant, keratolytic | Rough, thick skin |
| 5 | Colloidal oatmeal | Skin protectant | Itchy, irritated skin |
| 6 | Lactic acid | Humectant, exfoliant | Flaky, bumpy body skin |
| 7 | Dimethicone | Occlusive | Lightweight daytime protection |
| 8 | Shea butter | Emollient | Body softness |
| 9 | Hyaluronic acid | Humectant | Layering under a cream |
How to Get the Most From Any Moisturizer
The ingredient list matters, but how you moisturize matters just as much. These are the habits recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology and the ones we follow ourselves:
- Moisturize within minutes of bathing. Pat skin dry, leave it slightly damp, and apply right away to trap water.
- Choose creams or ointments over lotions. They are more effective and often less irritating.
- Keep showers short and warm, not hot. Dr. Robinson suggests keeping them under 10 minutes and below about 105°F.
- Use fragrance-free, gentle cleansers. Deodorant and antibacterial soaps strip natural oils.
- Reapply to your hands after every wash. Keep a tube by every sink.
- Run a humidifier in your bedroom during the heating season.
- Keep wearing sunscreen. Winter UV still damages skin, especially with snow reflection.
Dermatologist Dr. Anabelle Garcia of Sonterra Dermatology also recommends applying a thick moisturizer twice a day during dry months and avoiding fragranced lotions.
When Dry Skin Is More Than Dry Skin
Sometimes, what looks like winter dryness is something else. Please see a doctor or dermatologist if:
- Your skin cracks and bleeds, or shows signs of infection (warmth, pus, spreading redness)
- You have intense itching that keeps you up at night
- Red, scaly patches do not improve after two weeks of consistent moisturizing
- You notice thick, silvery plaques (possible psoriasis) or ring-shaped patches (possible fungal infection)
Conditions like eczema (atopic dermatitis) and psoriasis often need prescription treatment, and fungal infections can mimic dry skin. And if you also struggle with breakouts, our guide to acne types and what actually helps covers how to moisturize without clogging pores.
The Bottom Line
You do not need an expensive cream to beat winter dryness. The best-supported ingredients, petrolatum, ceramides, and glycerin, are available at any drugstore for a few dollars. Add urea for rough patches and colloidal oatmeal for itch, and you have covered almost every winter skin problem.
The real secret is the combination: a humectant to draw water in, an occlusive to hold it there, and the habit of applying it to damp skin twice a day. Do that consistently, and your skin should feel noticeably better within a week or two.
Sources I Used
- Cutis: Petrolatum is effective as a moisturizer
- Rotterdam Study: Prevalence of xerosis cutis, JAAD
- German skin screening study, JEADV
- Darlenski, Fluhr, Surber: Glycerol and the skin, BJD
- Fluhr et al.: Glycerol accelerates barrier recovery
- AHFS monograph: Urea (topical)
- Kurtz and Wallo: Colloidal oatmeal, JDD
- WebMD: Winter-proof your skin
- Consumer Reports: Dry winter skin
- KSAT: AAD winter skin tips
This article is for general education and is not a substitute for medical advice. See a dermatologist for persistent or severe skin symptoms.
